Oh, What A Day, Part 1

Yesterday, Friday the 13th natch, was quite the day living in the Gambia.

K. was visiting (hooray!) and after unsuccessfully trying to get transport to Basse the day before, we headed over to the roadside extra early in the morning.

It was still cool(-ish) when we arrived at the bantaba, but the day promised to be hot as we greeted the other travelers and sat under the mango tree to wait for a car.

Soon we were distracted by a commotion. An argument had broken out between two men. As we watched it quickly escalated to yelling and shouting. Ruben Studdard’s body double (appearing right here in The Gambia!) had to hold back one of the men as he yelled “I know you like to fight! I know you like to fight!”

The men were arguing about work of some kind. I didn’t catch most of it, but soon the whole village had turned out to watch. The two men were yelling and trying to take shots at each other, calling names and screaming.

Finally, the men were restrained, but when it seemed like the fight was over they would start back in again. The alkalo (village leader) tried briefly to intervene, but then sat down to watch the show. (And keep in mind these men are in their 60’s! Not some hot-headed youngsters…)
A bystander made a comment about “The monkey and the dog will never get along. They will always fight.” (Sharing some Mandinka proverb wisdom)

The few cars that passed during this time were full, much to K. and my disappointment.

Soon after the fight ended and the villagers drifted back to work, up the road comes Jamboye. He lives in my compound and is my host brother’s uncle/cousin/relative somehow. Jamboye has this big platter with piles of raw meat. He’s selling it, and there are five equal piles arranged around the plate. (Keep in mind meat in The Gambia refers to almost everything underneath the skin…) One (probably) choice pile included the animals head.
“Jamboye, what is that?” There is a paw in the middle of the platter!
“Is that a dog paw? Is this dog meat?!”
“It is bush meat.”
“Yes, but from what animal?!” But he has already moved on. The mystery meat remains a mystery. Seriously, a paw on a platter! Ostensibly, so you would know what animal the meat came from. It could have been monkey, antelope, dog, or other yet-un-encountered animal.